I think the ultimate deliciousness comes from a sense of security that comes from a good relationship between the person who cooks and the person who eats. Chef Keiko Hosoi

For all of you whose stomachs growl at the mere mention of "Hosoi-san's Food," the wait is over!

We interviewed Hosoi Keiko, who is involved in almost all of Monosus' food businesses, including the Kamiyama Food Hub Project , Yoyogi Farm Mart & Friends , Kudan Shokudo , and Kamiyama Marugoto National College of Technology's cafeteria, Marugoto Shokudo.

Although the title says "chef," Hosoi's work goes beyond that concept. He is an all-round professional who handles everything from cooking, desserts, product and menu development, catering, and restaurant service.

In this episode of "Meeting the Measures," we spoke to Hosoi about the culinary path she has walked and her own standards for what is "delicious."

I decided I wanted to work in the kitchen from an early age.

- Mr. Hosoi, where did you start working as a chef?

Hosoi: My first job was in confectionery at a resort hotel in Hakone, but it wasn't that I particularly wanted to work in sweets, it just happened. At the time, I wanted to try different things, so I jumped into a job that was right for me, within the broad framework of wanting to work in the kitchen.

At the age of 23, I joined GEORGE'S FURNITURE (now Welcome) and worked at a cafe in Jiyugaoka, before transferring to the Kyoto cafe "ask a giraffe." At the hotel, I made food according to recipes created by my superiors, but at ask a giraffe, there was an environment where people of the same generation could bring their skills together and plan new products. At first, I was in charge of desserts, but I was told, "If you like cooking, why don't you give it a try?", and I also started developing lunch and monthly menus.

During my time at Welcome, I worked in wine and service at the restaurant "HOUSE Nishiazabu" and as a manager at the gluten-free cafe "RIVIVE KITCHEN (now THE THREE)". During this time, I served dishes and desserts without using any wheat flour, which instantly blew away my preconceived notions that "gluten-free is not tasty" and "it can't be done without wheat flour". It was a big turning point for me to realize that it is possible to create a restricted diet that everyone can enjoy, whether they have allergies or not, and that the restrictions themselves can be enjoyed.

- I heard that you later also worked on product development for DEAN & DELUCA.

Hosoi: At DEAN & DELUCA, I was in charge of developing bakery and sandwich products. I created recipes, calculated costs, and arranged for procuring ingredients. I would take photos of each step of the recipe and give them to each store, but since each store had a different cooking environment, it was very difficult to go around to each store and adjust the recipe. Also, DEAN & DELUCA changes its menu about 100 times a year, so at times I would be prototyping more than 10 items a month. When I presented at a tasting event, I was criticized very bluntly. It was very difficult, but also fun.

Moreover, at DEAN & DELUCA, there was an environment where the people around me were always there to help me if I needed anything. Even when I was unsure about something in development, I would ask, "Can I ask for a little advice?" and they would lean forward to listen, and there was a sense of teamwork where everyone would jump in and take action when something happened. It was refreshing to see that there was another way to create a team like this, and it was also a learning experience for me.

Launching the Food Hub was extremely difficult

- How did you end up getting involved in launching the Food Hub Project in Kamiyama?

Hosoi: After I left DEAN & DELUCA I was thinking about doing something on my own when Manabe (Taichi) from Monosus asked me if I wanted to run Food Hub with him.

I first met Manabe-san in 2011 at OPENharvest, a food event where members of Chez Panisse traveled around the country. At the time, I was at HOUSE Nishiazabu and participated in a one-day pop-up. After that, I accompanied Manabe-san to Nomadic Kitchen, which he was running with Yuri Nomura of eatrip, and cooked at Monosus' anniversary party, and we had more opportunities to work together. We also went out for drinks privately.

Hosoi-san, who prepared desserts at Monosus' 11th anniversary party (2015)

- Why did you want to work with Manabe-san?

Hosoi: There was no awkwardness at all when we talked about our thoughts on food. "There must be a reason for a good restaurant," "The relationship between the cook and the eater should be equal," and so on. And also, I guess it's the driving force behind Manabe's work. It's hard to keep up with him, though (laughs).

- How did starting up the food hub compare to your previous experiences?

Hosoi: It was extremely difficult to set up an agricultural team, bakery, restaurant, food education, and processing all at once. "Normally, you'd do one of them first, right?" (laughs). I don't think I could do that anymore.

- Mr. Hosoi, you were involved in almost everything except agriculture.

Hosoi: Yes. I was involved in creating a selection criteria table for ingredients purchased at the Food Hub, developing menus for the cafeteria and bakery, developing processed foods, operating the cafeteria, and planning and running events. I was basically involved in everything, from selecting the cash register and kitchen equipment to applying to the health center.

- At times like that, did you ever think, "I'm a chef, so it's not my job to choose the cash register, right?"

Hosoi: Manabe-san does everything, so when you work with him, you think, "That's just how it is." Also, none of the early members of Food Hub ever said, "This isn't my job, is it?" Things moved forward with a "Let's do it like this," "Who's going to do it?" The early members were very light on their feet and had an "Let's go and see for ourselves first" kind of attitude. For example, when we were creating a list of selection criteria for ingredients, we all visited soy sauce and miso breweries, listened to them directly and understood them, and then decided, "Okay, let's buy this product." I think everyone was incredibly passionate about it.

The student cafeteria is a "family dining table"

- What is it like working at Kamiyama National College of Technology's student cafeteria, "Marugoto Shokudo"?

Hosoi: I think it's a good fit because it brings together everything I've done up until now, such as the research skills I've cultivated at Welcome, the development skills I was recognized for at DEAN & DELUCA, the ingredient selection at Food Hub, and the operations at Kudan Shokudo. I also have the least stress from my job.

- At Marugoto Shokudo, you serve set meals using local ingredients, as well as the casual "mentaiko udon" that is popular among students. How do you go about creating these two types of menu items that you prepare for each meal?

Hosoi: To me, Marugoto Shokudo is a "home," so I cook from the perspective of "What kind of meal would I make if I were serving it to my family?" My biggest mission as a chef is to come up with menus that are delicious and safe to eat, and that make people wonder every day, "Ah, which one should I eat?" I adjust the nutritional value with the advice of a registered dietitian and calculate the cost per meal, but I try not to be too conscious of it.

The menu for "Marugoto Shokudo" was thought up by Hosoi. Young people have sensitive palates, and Hosoi says, "When we changed the stock in the miso soup, the number of customers asking for second servings increased."

- Isn't it hard to keep coming up with a different menu every day?

Hosoi: That's not a big deal. We have data on about 3,000 dishes from the food hub's "Kama-ya." For example, even the same hamburger steak will taste different if you change the sauce, and the appearance will change if you change the vegetables you put on it. Also, we serve two types of food at each meal, so even if we serve the same menu, half of the students will have never tried it before.

As I tried out different dishes, I learned that "pasta is popular" and "udon and rice bowls are more popular than set meals for lunch because they are easier to eat." I sometimes ask students, "Why did you choose this today?" to get ideas. For me, making something delicious and making people happy is a given. It's natural to be told it's "delicious." I've already gained the trust of people as "people who make delicious food," so I'm thinking about how to open up the other areas.

-What do you mean by "drawing out the other parts"?

Hosoi: For example, when girls who normally only eat a little come back for more, there must be a reason. When they see ingredients they've never tried before and ask, "What other ways can you eat this?" or "How do you make this?" or say something other than "It's delicious," that's one of the indicators that makes me think, "This is a success." This realization might lead to something, like getting them interested in primary industries.

I never ask, "What do you want to eat?" One time, the students wrote their "lunch requests" under the menu board, and that's fine. I just need to be there to watch over them and respond to what they tell me.

The kitchen awaits the students just before lunchtime.

When students see Hosoi, they naturally start talking to him.

What do you usually talk about with your students?

Hosoi: I don't want to be a "mom" to 16-year-olds, but I want to be on an equal footing with them. "Your nails are cute. Where did you get them done?" or "Where did you get your perm?" If I notice a small change in their daily lives, I'll talk to them. I also study what's popular among young people and sometimes ask them, "What do you like?"

Recently, I've been recording the names of my students and their preferences in a notebook. Even at a restaurant, when your glass is empty and the waiter asks you, "What would you like next?", you feel relieved that the waiter is watching you. It might be the same feeling.

Hospitality is at the heart of cooking

- First of all, when did you first start to like cooking?

Hosoi: Ever since I was a child. Whenever there was an event at my grandmother's house, she would cook and serve food at home. I thought it was cool to see my grandmother and mother in the kitchen, and even as a child I enjoyed helping out. Cooking food while thinking about the people who will be eating it. Serving it and entertaining them. I love that kind of thing.

- When I visited Mr. Hosoi's house some time ago, the food was of course delicious, but it was also an equally comfortable stay. Just before I thought, "I'm thirsty," or "I want to take a bath," he offered me food. For Mr. Hosoi, a chef's job doesn't end with "making and serving food," but rather, he seems to be trying to create the entire time and space that encompasses "eating." What exactly do you consider to be the "job of a chef"?

Hosoi: Eh? I've never thought about it. I have a stance of doing everything I can.

I love traveling, and I often stay at small, family-run inns. They cook the food, prepare the bath, prepare the room, and welcome the guests, and I think, "That's it." I love the atmosphere that these inns exude, and I feel happy when I experience that everyday hospitality. I think I choose these inns because I want to be like them.

Recently, I've been thinking that the richest happiness is when you take a bite of food and say, "It's delicious. It's really good. Thank you for the meal." I don't want people to eat while thinking about complex things like, "What's in this?" I want them to just relax.

- When I'm on the eating side, I think that you have a wide range of what you consider to be "delicious." Sometimes you go to proper restaurants for the taste, but you also go to casual local eateries and izakayas.

Hosoi: In that sense, I don't think "delicious" is just about taste. It's about the comfort and atmosphere of the restaurant. I'm not satisfied with just making delicious food, but I'm also interested in the service on the floor and how to communicate with the cooking team, because I think all of that leads to "delicious." I think "delicious" also includes the feeling that "this place is nice" or "this space is somehow relaxing."

At "Izakaya Keiko" held at the Food Hub Project's restaurant "Kama-ya." (From the Food Hub " Activity Journal ")

Food is now a "lifestyle"

- It's already been seven years since you became independent. How do you want to work in the future?

Hosoi: If I were to do it myself someday, I would like to do something small and within my reach, something I can continue to do little by little. I would like to be able to live comfortably while making use of the experiences I have had up to now. I am the type of person who likes being alone or with a small group of people, but I think the reason I want to entertain people is because I like people.

-- I think the days of being voracious about learning are over.

Hosoi: Learning about food greedily is something that will continue forever, and it has become a lifestyle. Even when I travel, I eat something or visit a producer, so people think I work all year round, but to me it's just rest. If it looks like "work" to others, I've come to think that it must be a lifestyle.

- When we go out to eat together, I thought you would see the kitchen, but that's not the case.

Hosoi: When I go out to eat something delicious, I want to concentrate on eating. If I think, "The skin of the guinea pig is delicious," I might take a quick look at how the skin is cooked when someone else orders it.

- Finally, I'd like to ask you, what do you do when you feel down at work?

Hosoi: If I can't produce a quality that satisfies me, it's mentally exhausting. Like, "Why did I serve something like that?" For example, at a catering event, I might find that the taste when it cooled down was different from what I expected. The people who ate it might say, "It's just as delicious," but if I'm not satisfied with it, I'm completely devastated. At times like that, I'll make a prototype while looking at photos of overseas catering on Instagram, and after unraveling the basics, I'll add my own touch and think, "I'll do it like this next time."

Recently, I've been thinking that if I focus too much on cooking, I'll become rigid. In January of this year, I went to see Ichikawa Danjuro's play. The moment the curtain opened, I felt the passion and burst into tears, even though he wasn't saying any lines. There is an aura of someone who puts in a lot of effort. When I feel that kind of thing, it's stimulating, so I realized once again that it's important to pay attention to things other than cooking.

- Thank you very much. I hope to enjoy some delicious food with you again.

To have people enjoy delicious food and to eat delicious food.

Hosoi looks very beautiful when she cooks. I can vividly recall her cooking scenes: holding a big bowl and making a salad, chopping vegetables on a chopping board, and grilling meat in a frying pan. The ingredients being cooked are so in harmony that they seem to feel completely at ease in Hosoi's hands. I imagine that when I eat the food she serves me, I feel at ease just like the vegetables.

Hosoi-san said, "There's a reason why something is delicious," and watching her cook, I think that's really true. Rather than relying on information that explains what is "delicious," it's about taking it in with your own sensibility and building an equal relationship with the cook. I think that's what it means to "eat delicious food deliciously."